Unveiling the Secrets of Uzbekistan: The Only Itinerary Guide You’ll Ever Need
As we wander through the labyrinthine alleys, hand in hand, we can almost hear the whispers of caravans that once traversed the Silk Road. It feels as if the very stones beneath our feet hold secrets of a thousand and one nights, each eagerly waiting to be uncovered. The connection to the ‘Arabian Nights’ is tangible, as if Scheherazade herself might appear around the corner, ready to recount her next enchanting tale.
This is a place where fantasy and reality intertwine, where the past lingers in the present, and every shared moment feels like a brush with the mystical. Uzbekistan is not just a destination; it is a journey through time, a bridge to a world where legends come to life. And as we continue our exploration, we are not merely visitors, but characters in a story that continues to unfold with each step we take together. This is our Arabian tale, and it is here that our shared narrative begins.
We had ventured far and wide before, but nothing could have prepared us for the magic that lay in wait. In nine days, we traced a path paved with stories and splendor, we savoured dishes that danced on our tongues, flavors we’ll never forget. We gazed upon Islamic marvels; their beauty was too grand to be described. And we met souls so kind, they warmed our hearts like the Sun. Uzbekistan, with its lanes rich in history and its people rich in warmth, became more than just a stop on our map, it became a favorite chapter in the book of our travels. And now, we share with you this simple guide, a window into the moments that left us without words, in a land that speaks to the heart. So come, let us take you there.
Table of Contents
Day 1 – Tashkent
Your Uzbekistan journey begins in Tashkent, the country’s capital and largest city. This modern metropolis is a perfect introduction to the country’s blend of Soviet-era influence and traditional Uzbek culture. For those departing from Delhi, Indigo provides the most economical option with its late-evening flights. However, for travelers eager to maximize their time in Tashkent, Uzbekistan Airways offers a preferable alternative with its early morning departures on Tuesdays and Fridays. Although the latter choice comes at a slightly higher cost, it affords you a full day to start the journey in a relaxed manner, by enjoying the ornate beauty of the metro stations, experiencing the vibrant hustles in the market, and visiting the historical treasures within the museum. If you take the later flight from Delhi, you can keep the next day for exploring Tashkent.
Amir Temur Museum
Start your day at the heart of the city. Once you’ve checked into your chosen accommodation, make your first stop at the State Museum of the Temurids. This museum offers a unique glimpse into the grandeur of the Timurid dynasty, showcasing an array of artifacts that bring to life the splendor and ingenuity of an era long passed, providing a perfect start to your exploration of the city’s cultural heritage.
The closest metro stations are Yunus Rajabi and the Amir Temur Hiyoboni located just 9 minutes away from the museum.
Timings: The museum is open from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm
Entry fee: The ticket costs 40000 som (around 270 INR)
Minor Mosque
Next head straight to Tashkent’s latest landmark, unveiled on the 1st of October 2014, coinciding with the celebrations of EID. This magnificent mosque, clad in pristine white marble, stands out with its unique architectural style that you won’t find anywhere else on your travels. It boasts a pair of soaring minarets, and a dome painted in shades of turquoise, all gleaming under the sun’s unobstructed rays.
Bodamzar metro is the nearest metro station with a brief 15-minute stroll down the bustling Amir Temur Avenue.
Timings: It’s open throughout the day.
Entry Fee: Admission for visitors is free. However, legs and shoulders should be covered and women need to cover their heads with scarves.
Hazrati Imam Complex
Dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries, this architectural marvel houses significant structures such as the Moʻyi Muborak Library, the Qaffol Shoshi mausoleum, and the Hazrati Imam mosque, among others. Interestingly, the complex houses the ancient Qurʻon (Usmon Mus’haf), which is considered one of the rarest manuscripts in the world.
The complex is about a 20-minute walk from Chorsu metro station and takes only 12 minutes by car from Minor Mosque.
Timings: 9:00 am until 9:00 pm
Entry Fee: While the entrance to the complex is free, tourists have to pay 30,000 som for entry to the library.
Chorsu Bazaar
A quintessential market, is renowned for its distinctive, blue-domed structure and is a popular spot for acquiring indigenous items. You can probably visit here in the evening. This two-level indoor marketplace features an array of outdoor stalls offering fresh produce, textiles, and pottery. Surrounding the bazaar, numerous lanes are dotted with shops selling an eclectic mix of jewelry, garments, baked goods, and keepsakes.
Navigating the city is a breeze; hail a taxi to any destination within the metropolis. If you opt for public transportation, your journey will include traversing some of Tashkent’s most aesthetically pleasing subway stations. These stations are renowned for their distinctive designs and are considered among the city’s highlights.
Where we stayed: Our accommodation was an affordable yet comfortable establishment called Al Arda Avenue Hotel, where the cost for a single night’s stay was 16 USD or 1350 INR including breakfast. It was conveniently located 2.5 KM away from Tashkent station.
Note: A wide selection of hotels rated over 8 on Agoda is available, with prices beginning at INR 2000. Additionally, one can find hostels priced from as little as INR 1000.
How to reach the next destination: The most convenient and swift option for traveling from Tashkent to Samarkand is undoubtedly by train. Opting for the high-speed Afrosiyab train departing early morning is advisable; it reaches its destination in approximately 2.5 hours, albeit at twice the cost of the standard Uzbekistan trains. These regular trains also set off in the early hours but expect a journey time of about 3.5 to 4 hours. Throughout the day, various other schedules are available, offering flexibility for travelers to choose a time that best suits their itinerary. But ensure to book well in advance.
Day 2 – Tashkent to Samarkand
An Uzbekistan journey would be incomplete without exploring one of the oldest inhabited cities in Central Asia. Our only brush with the name ‘Samarkand’ was likely years back, a fleeting reference in our twelfth-grade history textbooks or perhaps while savouring Mughlai cuisine at a similarly named eatery in Bangalore, which has since shuttered its doors. Back then, our understanding of the true essence of Samarkand was limited, but experiencing its grandeur firsthand reveals a city that transcends our prior knowledge and expectations, with its breathtaking architecture and rich history waiting to be discovered.
Our arrival in Samarkand was later than anticipated, deep into the warm afternoon. Onboard the train, we opted for a modest meal, savouring some local sandwiches paired with chilled coffee that seemed to echo the laid-back spirit of our journey. Once at the hotel, we wasted no time in depositing our suitcases before venturing out to Gur-E-Amir, eager to immerse ourselves in the majesty of the mausoleum’s history and architecture.
Gur-e-Amir or Gur-i Amir
The complex also known as the Amir Temur Mausoleum stands as an enduring symbol of architectural excellence. This grandiose structure serves as the final burial place of Timur, also revered as Tamerlane and his lineage. Topped with an iconic, fluted dome bathed in a stunning azure hue, the mausoleum exudes a majestic aura. The interior is a symphony of intricate mosaics and calligraphy, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Uzbekistan. This masterpiece has inspired numerous Islamic designs throughout Central Asia, including the Mughal architectural gems such as the Gardens of Babur in Kabul, Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi, and the iconic Taj Mahal in Agra, ensuring its influence endures for generations.
Timings: 9:00 am to 7:00 pm daily
Entry fee: 40,000 som (266 INR)
We opted for a Yandex taxi from our hotel, which was quite economical at 27,000 som for a 3.3 km journey. Yandex proved to be an excellent choice for navigating the city swiftly. Additionally, many attractions are conveniently accessible on foot, making it a pleasure to explore the city’s walkable areas.
Registan Viewing Platform
It was almost evening when we reached the most famous attraction of the city and ticket counters were already closed. As dusk settled over Registan Square, the fading light beckoned us to simply enjoy the magnificent sight of the madrassahs illuminating against the evening sky. We chose a cozy nook on the viewing platform. This glass-surrounded vantage point offered an idyllic setting for an evening promenade and a spectacular view of the night sky. Despite the throng of visitors, the expansive platform provided ample space to find an empty spot to stand, or one could descend to the broader steps to relish the serene evening ambiance. Conveniently, a nearby café named Sordiana, offered delightful snacks and steaming cups of coffee, perfect companions for the 8:00 pm light and sound spectacle. The lush surroundings of the platform, akin to a verdant park, enhanced the overall experience.
Timings and Entry Fee: The viewing platform is just next to the road is accessible throughout the day and doesn’t require any tickets.
Note: Occasionally, the guards walking around may present an opportunity to access the main square via a side entrance, offering tickets at a reduced rate just as the official ticketing window is about to close (typically at 7 pm). Visitors who have already secured their entry can enjoy the historic madrassahs up until 11:00 pm. Despite this, we were uncertain if a legitimate ticket could be issued after the official counters had closed, and concerned about the ethics of such an entry, we decided it would be best to postpone our visit to the following day.
Day 3 – Samarkand
Our second day in Samarkand was crucial because we had several spots to check out. We wanted to dodge the big crowds and the intense noon sun, which could ruin our photos of the beautiful monuments. That’s why we decided to start with Shah-i-Zinda, which opens its doors quite early in the morning.
Shah-i-Zinda
The Shah-i-Zinda is a stunning example of architectural beauty, known for its breathtaking spires, a parade of vividly hued structures, and walls adorned with detailed artistry and bright blue domes. It’s a photographer’s dream, offering perfect shots from every angle. This holy site is the final resting place for many of the elite, including relatives of the conqueror Timur, dating back from the 11th to the 19th centuries. The name ‘Shah-i-Zinda’ means ‘Tomb of the Living King’, a nod to the legend that Qusam ibn-Abbas, a relative of the prophet Muhammad who introduced Islam to the area in the 7th century, is entombed here. When we arrived just as the gates opened, we were the only ones there, allowing us to wander freely and marvel at the intricate designs that covered every inch of the buildings, from the grand entrance to the inner chambers.
Be mindful that this is a sacred place where many come to offer prayers as well, so avoid taking photos next to the tombstones or any place that is restricted for visitors.
Timings: The complex opens at 7:00 am and stays accessible for visitors till 7:00 pm.
Entry fee: Entrance ticket costs 40,000 som per person.
The complex is located just 1.7 km away from Hotel El Emir where we stayed. We hopped on to a Yandex to not waste any time early in the morning.
Fact: Over time, this historic site has seen many renovations. The most recent major update was in 2005, which included the construction of new tombs, the replacement of many original Timurid tileworks with new ones, and the removal of an ancient school’s entrance. While some argue that the current decorative works are not the original and question the need for such extensive changes, others believe these efforts have brought back its old glory. Regardless of these views, visitors today can enjoy a site that beautifully reflects its rich past.
About ninety minutes into our adventure, we wrapped up our tour of the stunning complex. As more visitors began to trickle in, we decided to make our way to Registan Square, which we had missed the day before. We arrived there around 8:45 am, and to our delight, it wasn’t too crowded yet, though a few tourist groups were already there on the platform. We quickly got our tickets and stepped into the square. It’s a vast space, dominated by three grand madrassahs, and you could easily spend three to four hours exploring every intricate detail and hidden nook if you’re not in a rush.
Registan Square
In the heart of the square, you’ll find three captivating madrasahs, each a beacon of medieval scholarly pursuits. The Ulugh Beg Madrasah, nestled to the left, stands as the oldest of all, its foundations laid during the Timurid Empire’s zenith between 1417 and 1420. It was a cradle of knowledge, where subjects like theology, mathematics, philosophy, astronomy, and logic were fervently explored. Facing it is the Sher-Dor Madrasah, echoing Ulugh Beg in design yet boasting a grand dome that marks its signature style, a legacy of the Shaybanids’ rule from 1619 to 1636. At the square’s center is the Tilya-Kori Madrasah, a gem completed by the Shaybanids between 1646 and 1660, embodying the era’s rich educational and cultural traditions.
Ulugh Bek Madrasah
As you step into the historic Registan, turn to your left to start from the Ulugh Beg Madrasah, a prestigious institution from the 15th century, renowned for its contribution to Islamic education. It was here that many Persian scholars and poets found their inspiration. Venture through the madrasah to the far end of the courtyard, and you’ll stumble upon a concealed door. Should you need assistance finding it, the friendly shop owners are always there to help. Interestingly, these shops were once residential quarters for students and teachers studying there. The door is your gateway to a hidden staircase leading to the upper levels, offering a breathtaking panorama of the courtyard below. It’s a vantage point seldom explored by tourists, providing a unique opportunity to capture the intricate details of the madrasah’s architecture.
Tilya-Kori Madrasah
This majestic structure served not only as an Islamic school but also as one of the city’s most significant mosques for many years. Visitors can marvel at its exquisite ceiling carved with lavish use of gold leaf, which gives the madrasah its name, meaning “adorned with gold.
Sher-Dor Madrasah
Placed on the eastern part of the square the name translates to ‘Lions Door’. The madrasah’s walls boast Koranic verses and are adorned with glazed bricks, gold-laden paintings, and mosaics that embellish both the exterior and interior facades.
Timings: Open 8:00 am to 11:00 pm with last ticket at 7:00 pm.
Entry fees: 65,000 som (430 INR)
It took us around 15 minutes by taxi from Shah-i-Zinda to reach Registan. If you are staying close by then the roads around Registan are perfect for a stroll in the morning and you can visit there simply by walk.
Bibi Khanym Mosque
Built by Amir Timur himself, the mosque was named after his wife. Standing before its grand entrance, one can understand its reputation as one of the grandest mosques of the 15th-century Islamic world. Yet, Timur’s rush to complete the mosque, coupled with numerous design changes, led to its rapid decline. In 1897, an earthquake inflicted further destruction, collapsing much of the structure. Restoration efforts have been underway since Uzbekistan’s first president took office, and a stroll through the mosque grounds still reflects the original vision and skill of the craftsmen from that era. Undoubtedly, a rare gem that you must visit.
Timings: The mosque welcomes visitors every day. From April through October, it’s open from 8:00 am to 7:00 pm. From November to March, the hours are 9:00 am to 5:00 pm.
Entry fee: 40,000 som
The mosque is located just about a KM away from Registan Square, so we just reached there walking after our lunch. Taxi costs just 10,000 som (66 INR).
Siyob Bazar or Siyob Bozor
To get a feel for the city and its local shopping scene, head to the biggest market in town. You’ll find it bustling with both locals and visitors, situated right beside the Bibi Khanym Mosque. This market is filled with stalls offering fresh bread, dried fruits, vegetables, local treats like dates and halva, and spices. You’ll also find genuine Uzbek clothing, artwork, and more. Just outside, you might see college students playing traditional music on their guitars and other instruments.
Timings: 7:00 am to 7:00 pm daily except on Mondays.
Entry fee: None.
Day 4 – Samarkand
On your third day in Samarkand, after visiting the major sites, you have the option to take it easy and explore the city’s hidden gems. Another choice is to take a day trip to Shahrisabz, a UNESCO-listed city and the historic home of Amir Timur, which is about a two-hour drive from Samarkand. We chose to stay in the city to avoid exhaustion, as we had to catch a late-night train to Khiva that same day.
Hazrat Khizr Mosque
A historical monument in Samarkand, this mosque was built in the mid-19th century on the site of an older mosque. It is associated with the legendary Islamic prophet Khizr. The mosque features a distinctive Persian architectural style with a single dome and minaret, constructed from traditional materials like brick, wood, and plaster. It is notably situated opposite the Shah-i-Zinda complex, atop a hill, offering a commanding view of the surroundings. The mosque also includes the mausoleum of the first President of Uzbekistan, Islam Karimov.
Timings: Open daily 8:00 am to 6:00 pm
Entry fee: 50,000 som
It can be reached in just 10 mins by walk from Bibi-Khanym Mosque or Shah-i-Zinda. Alternatively, you can use an app taxi to get there from your hotel.
Observatory of Ulugbek
The Ulugbek Observatory is a significant historical site highlighting the Timurid era’s advanced astronomical knowledge. Constructed in the 1420s by Ulugbek, a famous leader and intellectual of his time, the observatory was a hub for scientific advancement and housed the largest quadrant of its age. Despite its destruction in the mid-15th century, the legacy of the observatory endures, representing a time of intellectual growth and major contributions to Islamic astronomy. Today, the Ulugh Beg Observatory operates as a museum, displaying a collection of artifacts, exhibits, instruments, and writings that offer insights into how scholars of that era viewed the universe.
Timings: 9:00 am to 7:00 pm all days of the week.
Entry fee: 40,000 som
You can grab a Yandex to reach the observatory, which will cost around 20,000 som.
After finishing the two attractions we went back to the hotel to get some sleep post lunch. We left again around 4:00 pm.
Chorsu Art Gallery
The Chorsu National Art Gallery is located in the historical center of Samarkand, near Registan Square and Sherdor Madrasah. Well, this hexagonal-shaped building is not a typical attraction. While primarily showcasing local artists’ paintings, which may not appeal to everyone, the gallery caught our attention with a poster for a show called ‘Mulan Torki’ at Registan’s ticket counter. Eager for a glimpse of traditional Uzbek culture, we seized the opportunity to attend. Despite the steep ticket price of 75,000 Som, the performance offered a captivating glimpse into Uzbek traditions, from wedding preparations to family customs, all portrayed through vibrant dance, song, and acrobatics. However, the experience felt slightly overpriced for its 50-minute duration.
Registan Square in the evening
We had heard that during spring and summer evenings, a traditional performance is held inside the Sher-Dor Madrasah around 7:00 pm. To view the event, we revisited the square that evening. To our disappointment, there was no performance scheduled, and none of the staff seemed aware of it. Despite missing the show, we still enjoyed capturing the beauty of the evening and discovering areas we had overlooked the day before.
As we were about to leave, a guard offered us and a few other tourists the chance to ascend the 40-meter minaret of Sher-Dor Madrasah for 10 USD. Although we had read about this opportunity, Riya was hesitant to climb the narrow tower in the late evening, despite knowing that many travelers had recommended it. I wasn’t very keen either, and even when the guard reduced the price to 100,000 Som (approximately 7 USD), we declined. It seems that climbing the 400-year-old minaret at sunset could be an exciting experience for some visitors. But we didn’t feel like doing it especially when we were expected to climb all by ourselves.
Where we stayed: In Samarkand, we stayed at the cozy El Emir hotel on Bukharskaya Street, a short 1.5 km hop from the stunning Registan Square. Our rooms were tidy, came with breakfast, and offered a lovely view of the pool. The pool was a bit on the small side and needed some care, but the outdoor seating was a nice touch. Plus, the staff at the 24-hour front desk were always friendly and helpful. Getting around was easy with taxis, and the stay was quite a bargain at just 85 USD (about 7000 INR) for three nights.
How to reach the next destination: After dinner at Registan Square, we made our way back to the hotel to catch the 11:30 pm train to Khiva. Our journey would last 12 hours in a sleeper coach, which promised a comfortable ride with individual berths and ample space for luggage. Despite the mild weather outside, the compartment’s heater was turned up high, causing us to sweat at first. It seemed no one else was concerned, suggesting the locals prefer it warmer at night. Eventually, we acclimated to the warmth and, though it took some effort, we managed to drift off to sleep.
Day 5 – Khiva
When we were planning our trip to Uzbekistan, we hesitated to add Khiva to our schedule. The main issue was that including just one day in Khiva meant we had to extend our trip by two days because the trains we wanted were fully booked. Initially, we planned to go from Samarkand to Bukhara, then to Khiva, and back to Tashkent. However, without train availability, and with a visit to Azerbaijan approaching, we couldn’t spare the extra days. Luckily, a last-minute change in our travel plans allowed us to spend half a day in Khiva. We’re so happy we made it work; Khiva’s stunning beauty is truly unique, and unlike any place we’ve ever seen.
We arrived in Khiva around noon, greeted by the bright sunshine. Initially, we were unsure if we could visit all the historical spots in the city. Luckily, Khiva’s attractions are conveniently close to each other, allowing visitors of all ages to tour comfortably. After checking into our hotel later in the afternoon, we indulged in a delightful meal at a nearby restaurant, which turned out to be one of the most delectable meals we’ve ever had. With satisfied stomachs, we set out at a leisurely pace to wander the city. By three o’clock, the sun had softened, offering a pleasant warmth that made our stroll through Ichan Kala’s (inner city) labyrinthine alleys even more pleasant. It felt as if we were wandering through the pages of a richly illustrated historical manuscript, each corner a paragraph, each building a chapter in the narrative of the Silk Road.
The essence of Khiva is captured probably not just in its visual splendor but in the palpable sense of history that envelops you as you wander through its streets. It is a place where the past and present coalesce, where the echoes of caravan footsteps still resonate through the colorful bazaars, and the air carries the whispers of scholars and poets who once walked this land. The city’s heart, the Ichan-Kala, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, safeguarding the delicate balance between preservation and the living heritage of the local community.
Itchan Kala’s fortified city, with its 50-plus historic monuments, can seem daunting at first glance. Initially, we pondered the necessity of a guide, as many travelers do. However, starting from the Bakcha Darvoza, the northern gate close to our accommodation, we found clear signage and directions that made self-exploration a breeze. Surprisingly, we soon set aside Google Maps and enjoyed discovering the city at our own pace. But if you are not too sure, you can hire a guide but expect to pay around 50 USD for three hours.
You can begin your tour from any point within the inner city, and explore the attractions in no particular order. However, if you’re starting at the North gate, we’ve mapped out the most efficient walking path to visit all the must-see monuments.
Note: you can enter the Itchan Kala from any of the gates, but the west and east gates are where you can collect your tickets for visiting the monuments. While some are free, the most important ones need a ticket to enter. So, we first collected the tickets at West Gate which is valid for 48 hours.
Buying Itchan Kala ticket: Previously, Itchan Kala offered three ticket categories: economy, standard, and VIP. However, the system has been simplified to a single ticket type since last year. Now, for 200,000 Som, visitors can purchase a main entrance ticket that remains valid for two days. This ticket grants access to the ancient city, encompassing most major sites, including historical landmarks, museums, and watchtowers. Notably, three attractions—the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum, the Islam Khoja Minaret, and the city’s outer walls—are exceptions, requiring a separate admission ticket available at their respective entrances. Details regarding the pricing for these specific attractions are provided separately.
Kalta Minor
The Minaret stands out in Uzbekistan, not just for its unique design but also for its story of ambition and unfinished dreams. It’s known as the “unfinished minaret” because it stands at only one-third of its planned height. Commissioned by Muhammad Amin Bahadur Khan, ruler of the Khiva Khanate, the goal was to construct an 80-meter-tall tower, the tallest in the Islamic world. Construction started in 1852 but came to an unexpected halt in 1855 at 29 meters due to the untimely death of Muhammad Amin Khan. Today, the minaret is a testament to the era and the vision of its commissioner. Adorned with intricate geometric patterns and a vibrant mix of white, green, and turquoise tiles, it’s a stunning example of craftsmanship. The blue hues of the tiles even earned it the nickname “blue minaret.” Visitors can also find historical verses from the Khiva poet Muhammad Riza Ogahi inscribed on it, adding to its cultural significance.
Timings: You can access the tower at any time of the day as there are no entry gates.
Mohammad Amin Khan Madrassah
Right beside the striking Kalta Minor, you’ll find a madrassah that’s now the Orient Star Khiva Hotel, a well-known place to stay in the historic part of town. This madrassah is a prime example of Khiva’s rich educational and architectural background. Built from 1852 to 1855 by Muhammad Amin Khan’s orders, it stands out as Khiva’s largest madrassah, with beautiful tile work and a solid two-level structure. In its early days, the madrassah was more than a place of learning; it was a key cultural center.
Kuhna Ark Fortress
The Ark, a grand fortress from the 12th century, expanded in the 17th, stands as the historic core of the city. Originally designed as a private domain for the ruler and his court, it now spans over 1.2 hectares and is the largest structure in Khiva. Inside, you’ll find the summer mosque, a museum showcasing a vintage world globe among other artifacts from the Qungrat dynasty, and even a mint with a collection of coins and notes. The Khan’s private quarters, stables, and prison are also part of this complex. On the west, there is a bastion that merges with the city walls and leads to a two-story watchtower through a winding staircase. Although climbing the tower isn’t possible anymore, the surrounding platform offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the city or so as we have heard, making it an ideal spot for sunset views. Sadly, during our visit, the tower was under repair, and we couldn’t experience it firsthand, which was quite disappointing.
Timings: The fortress itself is open from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. However, the watchtower is accessible only one hour before sunset and one hour after sunset. Do cross-check the timings while buying tickets.
Entry fee: The Kunha Ark entrance fee is included in the Itchan Kala ticket. An additional 2 USD (25,000 som or 165 INR) fee is required to climb the Watchtower.
Juma Mosque
Delving into the artistry of the Juma Mosque, one can’t help but admire the legacy of woodcarving in Khiva. Unlike the typical domed mosques, this building showcases a vast collection of woodcarving styles that have flourished in the region over centuries. The mosque’s roof, held aloft by 218 intricately carved wooden columns, was hewn from local almond and elm trees, with some even dating back to the 10th century. The play of sunlight streaming through the roof’s central opening bathes the interior in a warm glow, offering a visual feast for visitors. At present, it no longer serves as an active place of worship.
Timings: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm daily.
Entry fee: Included in main ticket.
Toshhovli Palace
Or The Tash Khauli Palace, a jewel of 19th-century Khorezm architecture in Khiva, was built from 1830 to 1838 by Allakuli-Khan’s decree. It’s a fortress-like structure with high battlements and towers, yet its interior courtyards and living quarters are adorned in traditional Khorezmian style. The palace is segmented into the harem, reception hall, and court of justice, each featuring Abdullah Djinn’s masterful blue and white majolica and wooden carvings. The harem, with its central courtyard and private lodges, was exclusively for the Khan’s wives, while the reception hall welcomed guests and dignitaries. The court of justice, grand and ornately decorated, was the Khan’s legal chamber. Noteworthy is the ‘ishkor’ ceramic glaze used on the tiles, preserving their vivid hues and the palace’s splendor for posterity.
Timings: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm daily.
Entry fee: Included in main ticket.
Islam Khoja Minaret
As a prominent feature of Khiva and the city’s highest point at 56.6 meters, this minaret was constructed between 1908 and 1910. Known for its slender shape and decorative glazed brickwork in vibrant blues and whites, the minaret is part of a complex that includes a madrasah. Visitors can enjoy sweeping views from the top and appreciate the intricate majolica and stucco work that adorns the madrasah; however, it will require an extra 100,000 Som (INR 657).
Timings: 8:00 am to 6:00 pm daily.
Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum
Constructed in 1664, the mausoleum stands as a tribute to Pahlavan Mahmud, whose multifaceted legacy as a poet, wrestler, and healer has been immortalized. What began as a modest workshop has been transformed into an expansive complex, serving as a testament to his lasting impact and a center for pilgrimage. Although we did not visit the mausoleum due to a separate admission ticket, the site remains a significant cultural and historical landmark.
Timings: 8:00 am to 10:00 pm daily.
Entry fee: 100,000 Som per person.
Day 6 – Khiva to Bukhara
Itchan Kala Outer Walls
Missing the chance to explore the Kuna Ark watchtower, we found ourselves at the northern gate the following morning, eager to view the outer walls. They opened later than anticipated, at 8:00 am, which meant we also missed the sunrise. Despite this, we bought tickets nearby. The walls, intended for defense, were a letdown; the battlements towered over us, and the arrow slits were aligned straight ahead, offering no view of the outside, much to our dismay. Nevertheless, the morning was saved by a refreshing breeze as we strolled along the walls, the cityscape unfolding below us. In hindsight, access to such an underwhelming attraction seems like it should be complimentary.
Timings: 8:00 am to 6:00 pm.
Entry fee: 40,000 Som
Carpet weaving factory
The intricate art of creating silk carpets, a craft honed over centuries, is still practiced here with a dedication to cultural preservation. At local workshops, visitors can witness the meticulous process of dyeing, weaving, and pattern making, often reflecting the vibrant designs found in Khiva’s architecture. These carpets are not just floor coverings but narrate stories of the past, making them timeless pieces of art.
Where we stayed: Our accommodation was the charming Khiva Muhammadali guesthouse, which was managed by a wonderfully hospitable local family. The rooms provided were not only immaculate but also included a delightful local breakfast, all offered at an incredibly affordable price of 26 USD (INR 2170). Engaging in heartfelt conversations with the family’s patriarch, sharing laughter with the adorable kids, and learning about their longstanding connection to the area enriched our experience, making our stay memorable and authentic. The owner of the guesthouse also offered to drop us at the station for a much lower price than the usual fare.
How to reach the next destination: We chose the 11:10 am train to Bukhara as it was the sole option available at the time of booking. On certain days, there is an alternative train departing at approximately 05:20 PM. The trip to Bukhara lasted about seven hours.
Tips: For those with a bit of extra time, a taxi journey from Khiva to Bukhara offers a splendid opportunity to visit the ancient Khorzem fortress. Although time constraints in our schedule prevented us from including this in our itinerary, it’s highly recommended for travelers who can afford an additional day.
By the time we reached our hotel in Bukhara, the clock had just struck 7:30 PM. The lingering melancholy of leaving Khiva clung to us—a bittersweet farewell to a city that felt like stepping into another world. Yet, as dusk settled over Bukhara, quiet anticipation stirred within us, a hope that this ancient city might weave its spell. That hope began to blossom as we ventured out for dinner. The Toqi Telpak Furushon (bazaar) unfolded before us, its arched walkways alive with the murmur of merchants and the soft glow of lanterns. Bukhara spoke in a language all its own—its rhythm distinct, its charm undeniable. Our night ended at the Ayvan restaurant, where every bite seemed infused with the soul of the city. Fatigue from the journey crept over us as we returned to the hotel, but it was a contented kind of weariness. Bukhara had begun its quiet enchantment, and we drifted to sleep with its whispers still in our ears.
Day 7 – Bukhara
This is a city where time seems to stand still. The streets, narrow and winding-like veins through an ancient body, entice you to explore their secrets. Each step feels as though you’ve crossed a threshold into history, where the air hums with the weight of stories untold. Minarets and domes rise like sentinels, their shadows dancing on sunlit walls, while the scent of aged stone mingles with the faint spice of the bazaars. You pause, captivated—not just by the delicate mosaics of a mosque or the regal arches of a madrasah, but by the overwhelming sense that you’ve entered a world untouched by the rush of modernity.
The first morning in Bukhara greeted us with a muted sky, the sun veiled completely behind thick, gray clouds. The patter of rain against the windows set a soft rhythm to our awakening, a soundtrack to a day that promised adventure despite its gloom. It wasn’t the ideal weather for our plans, but there was something undeniably poetic about the way the rain kissed the centuries-old bricks. Our plan was simple: reach the iconic Po-i-Kalyan Mosque complex before the gates opened, before the crowds filled the courtyards, and capture its splendor in the golden hush of morning. But the weather had other plans. As we lingered over breakfast at the hotel, the drizzle thickened into a steady shower, washing away any hopes of picture-perfect skies.
Undeterred, we adjusted our course. With umbrellas in hand, we turned our steps toward two nearby madrasahs, their ornate facades gleaming softly under the rain. Staying in Bukhara’s old town had its advantages—almost all the city’s historic treasures lay within a mere 1 km distance, their proximity offering us a silver lining on this gloomy morning.
Ulug’bek Madrasasi and Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah
These two are located opposite each other at Khodja Nurobobod Street. Ulug’bek Madrasah was our first stop. Seeking shelter beneath its arches, we found ourselves marveling at its quiet beauty. The sound of rain against the stone courtyards and the smell of damp earth seemed to amplify the sense of history surrounding us. The Po-i-Kalyan complex would have to wait, but the rain had gifted us a different kind of moment—a slower, more contemplative start to our day in Bukhara. Perhaps, we mused, the city was showing us another side of its charm, one that could only be appreciated under a blanket of rain.
As the rain played its game of stop-and-go, we managed to snap a few pictures of the two madrasahs. Around us, local vendors began to set up their stalls inside the Ulug’bek Madrasah, unfazed by the drizzle. Among them was a middle-aged woman with a warm smile, her tiny shop nestled in a quiet corner.
Noticing our rain-soaked photo spree, she called us with a friendly wave to take shelter inside. Her shop, brimming with traditional Uzbek clothing, seemed like a haven from the rain. She invited us to browse, her tone polite and hopeful, but we gently declined, explaining we weren’t looking to buy anything. Her smile didn’t waver as she returned to arranging her wares, her cheerful demeanor a ray of sunshine on this overcast morning.
As the downpour continued and we had already exhausted our photo opportunities, Gloriya decided to strike up a conversation. The shop was quiet, with no other customers in sight, and the woman greeted Gloriya’s attempts at small talk with genuine enthusiasm. Her broken English wove stories of her daily life, her little shop, and her love for Bukhara. Her joy was contagious, and soon, we found ourselves browsing her modest collection.
The shop, though simple, was filled with colorful, hand-stitched dresses. The woman’s excitement was palpable as she showed us her favorites, her eyes lighting up with every piece. Gloriya couldn’t resist the charm of her offerings and found a couple of long dresses she liked. To our surprise, the prices she quoted were much lower than those we’d seen the night before.
Gloriya picked out a few pieces, and the woman’s smile grew even brighter, her happiness more about the shared moment than the sale itself. Before leaving, we spent a few more minutes chatting, snapping pictures with her to capture the memory of this unexpected connection. By the time we stepped back onto the street, the rain had stopped, leaving behind a freshly washed Bukhara glistening in the muted light. It wasn’t the morning we had planned, but it was one we would always remember.
In a city filled with iconic landmarks like the Ark and the Kalyan complex, these two madrassahs often stand quietly in the background, attracting fewer crowds. They feel less like grand tourist attractions and more like serene corners of history, often doubling as spaces for souvenir shops. But that’s what made our visit to them feel special.
The Ulugbek Madrassah, built in the 15th century by the famed astronomer and mathematician Ulugbek, reflects the scholar’s understated elegance. Its simplicity carries a sense of purpose, embodying a place for learning rather than extravagance. In contrast, the Abdulaziz-Khan Madrassah, built in the 17th century, is a display of artistic ambition. Its intricate mosaics, mythical motifs like dragons and the Semurg bird, and vibrant designs speak of a desire to dazzle and impress.
While there was no entry fee for the Ulugbek Madrassah, a small fee—about 20,000 som—was required for Abdulaziz-Khan. We didn’t step inside the latter but were still captivated by its detailed exterior, a testament to its creators’ craftsmanship. These two madrassahs, though quieter than Bukhara’s more famous sites, left a lasting impression.
Po-i-Kalyan complex
After the rain stopped, we wandered over to the Po-i-Kalyan complex, where the atmosphere felt fresh, and the crowd was just starting to build—though it was far from overwhelming. The complex is a highlight of Bukhara’s Islamic heritage and is made up of three key structures, each brimming with history.
First, we stood before the Kalyan Minaret, which rises 47 meters into the sky. Known as the “Tower of Death” for its grim past, it was once used for executions, where criminals were thrown from its height. Over time, it became a symbol of Bukhara’s power and resilience, surviving invasions and earthquakes. It’s a marvel of engineering, with its intricate brickwork and commanding presence, standing tall as a visual landmark of the city’s history.
Next, we explored the Kalyan Mosque, which can hold over 10,000 worshippers. Built in the 16th century, it’s one of the largest and most important mosques in Central Asia. It features a beautiful iwan (vaulted hall) and an expansive courtyard, offering a serene place to sit and admire the scale of the architecture. It was once the heart of religious life in the region.
Lastly, we visited the Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, a center of Islamic learning dating back to the 16th century. It has a beautiful entrance adorned with intricate tilework and large courtyards. Once a school for religious studies, it still operates today as a functioning madrasah. The architectural style here, with its grand arches and colorful mosaics, shows the depth of Bukhara’s cultural and spiritual legacy.
Timings: 8:00 am to 8:00 pm.
Entry fee: A small fee of about 30,000 som allowed us access to these fascinating buildings.
As we finished our lunch, the sky once again turned a soft, brooding gray. With a long, unhurried afternoon ahead, we set out to explore the quiet charm of Bukhara. The streets, bordered by weathered stone walls and wooden doors, seemed to mirror the relaxed pace of the day. We strolled at a leisurely pace, wandering through narrow lanes, each turn brought us to a shop brimming with treasures—handwoven rugs, shimmering silks, and intricate brassware. The shopkeepers, warm and welcoming, spoke in gentle tones, inviting us to browse and linger. We picked a few pillow covers for our home and a jacket for our son. Between the browsing and the bargaining, we paused to savor the flavors of Bukhara. Without the hum of cars to disturb the peace, the square was alive with the sound of footsteps and laughter. Cyclists meandered by, their wheels creaking softly, while groups of local children strolled, chatting in a blend of languages that felt like a melody. As the hours melted away, we found ourselves lulled by the laid-back rhythm of the place. The afternoon felt endless, and in that timeless atmosphere, it was as though Bukhara had let us glimpse a piece of its soul.
Day 7 – Bukhara
Chor Minor
Our second morning in Bukhara greeted us with clear skies and warm sunshine. We began our day exploring a small yet uniquely designed site known as the Madrasah of Khalif Niyaz-kul, also called Chor Minor for its four distinctive minarets. Built in 1807 by Khalif Niyaz-kul, a wealthy Turkmen of Bukhara, this structure dates back to the Manghit dynasty. Though often mistaken for the entrance gate to the now-demolished madrasah complex, Chor Minor is a standalone building with dual purposes—ritual and shelter. It once formed part of a larger educational complex, much of which no longer remains.
Timings: 8:00 am to 8:00 pm.
Entry fee: None.
Bolo Hauz mosque
Our journey continued as we hailed a Yandex taxi to visit the breathtaking Bolo Hauz Mosque, one of Bukhara’s architectural gems. This historic mosque near the Ark Fortress immediately captivated us with its serene beauty and unique rectangular design. “Bolo Hauz” translates to “mosque of the reservoir,” a nod to the tranquil pool of water, or howz in Uzbek, that lies before it. This reflective pool not only enhances the mosque’s visual appeal but also serves as a practical water source in the past. Built in 1712, the mosque served as a place of worship for the emirs and the people of Bukhara.
Its distinctiveness lies in the grand iwan—a large open porch—supported by twenty elegantly carved wooden columns. What truly left us awestruck was the ceiling above the iwan, lavishly decorated with vibrant colours and delicate geometric patterns, it appeared as if an artist’s canvas had come to life. The interplay of light and shadow on the painted details added to its ethereal charm. The mosque is still functional today; tourists can also enter during prayer hours with appropriate dressing.
Opening time: 24 hours
Entry fee: None
Ark of Bukhara
From the serene beauty of the Bolo Hauz Mosque, we made our way to the next iconic landmark: the Ark of Bukhara. This imposing fortress, a symbol of the city’s ancient might and grandeur, rises like a guardian over the old town, its thick mud-brick walls glowing under the sunlight.
The Ark believed to date back to the 5th century, has stood as both a royal residence and a fortress. For centuries, it served as the heart of Bukhara, housing emirs, their courts, and a small city within its sturdy walls. Entering through the imposing gate, we followed a steep, sloping passage, its surface polished smooth by countless footsteps over the ages. Inside, we wandered through courtyards and chambers that once bustled with life—judicial halls, stables, and a mosque. A climb to the top of the fortress gave us a sweeping view of the city below, a contrast between Bukhara’s modern life and its ancient roots. However, compared to the grandeur of other landmarks in Bukhara and Uzbekistan, the Ark felt a bit understated. The top of the citadel seemed like it was under excavation, and many of the chambers housed modest displays of relics and artifacts, resembling a simple museum. Despite this, the Ark’s historical significance and its role as a fortress city make it a fascinating place to visit.
Timings: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm
Entry fee: 40,000 som
Lyabi Hauz Plaza
For lunch, we headed to the charming Lyabi Hauz ensemble and square, often called Lyab-i Khauz. This lively area is famous not just for its historical significance but also for its relaxed vibe, thanks to the many Uzbek-style chaikhanas (tea rooms) and restaurants that surround the central pool. The atmosphere was perfect for unwinding, with locals and tourists alike enjoying the shaded seating areas under ancient mulberry trees.
According to legend, the Grand Vizier, Nadir Divan Begi, commissioned the construction of the central reservoir to provide the people of Bukhara with a reliable water source. For centuries, this pool served as a vital spot where locals gathered water for drinking and bathing. However, about a century ago, its public use was discontinued due to health concerns, as stagnant water became a source of disease. Today, the restored reservoir remains, its still surface mirroring the sky and the historic buildings around it, adding to the tranquil beauty of the square.
Beyond the dining spots, Lyabi Hauz is a hub of activity. Around the square, there are numerous shops offering everything from handwoven rugs and embroidered textiles to intricate jewelry and ceramics. Strolling through these, we found it hard to resist the charm of the vibrant bazaars and ended up shopping for many items like traditional jackets, hand-woven pillow covers, and dresses.
The area is also rich in architectural beauty. Just steps away from the square is the Nadir Divan Begi Madrasah, a striking building adorned with vibrant tilework and a magnificent facade depicting mythical creatures. Nearby, the Kukeldash Madrasah, one of the largest in Bukhara, stands as a powerful example of Islamic architecture. Lyabi Hauz is more than just a place for food and shopping—it’s a cultural and historical treasure that combines the spirit of old Bukhara with the buzz of modern life.
Day 7 – Bukhara to Tashkent
As our journey through Bukhara, neared its end, we set aside our final day to visit one last gem: the Sitori-i-Mokhi Khosa Palace. After exploring its bustling squares, ancient madrasahs, and the imposing Ark, we ventured to the serene Sitori-i-Mokhi Khosa Palace. Located just outside the city, 7 to 8 km from old Bukhara, this summer residence of the emirs offered a striking contrast to the historical sites we’d seen. Known as the “Star and Moon Palace,” it blended European elegance with traditional Uzbek design, surrounded by peaceful gardens that seemed a world away from the city’s liveliness.
Inside, the palace dazzled with intricate mosaics, delicate stucco work, and opulent mirrored halls. Each room whispered stories of royal life, from grand receptions to secluded retreats. The tranquil gardens and artistic brilliance made it a fitting finale to our journey, leaving us with a deeper appreciation of Bukhara’s rich cultural heritage.
Timings: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm daily
Entry fee: 75,000 som pp.
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